Croatian Hot Spots

Moj je život fantazija s okusom grožđa i maslina![:en]Olive and Grape Porn: The Life of an American in Klis

[:HR]PRIČA O ŽIVOTU JEDNE AMERIKANKE U KLISU

Nisam baš siguran što bih rekao o Tracey iz Kalifornije.

Kada sam je prvi put susreo, ona je bila tek jedna u nizu lijepih inozemnih pridošlica privučenih životom u Splitu i okolici, kakve danju odlaze na kavu, a navečer na čašu-dvije vina, i nipošto ne propuštaju gomilu događanja u međuvremenu. Većina je na neki način bila povezana s turizmom i gastronomijom, a ulazak u njihov svijet bio je cool uvod u splitsku scenu i prilika za upoznavanje nekih veoma finih ljudi.

No, Tracey je drugačija, jer Tracey živi u brdima. Na Klisu.

Priliku da je upoznam, dobio sam kada je jedan medij radio svoj prilog o atrakcijama dalmatinskog zaleđa. I što sam više s njom razgovarao, bio sam sve sigurniji da ona jest drugačija - jedna od rijetkih strankinja bez hrvatskih korijena koje su došle ovdje, u potpunosti se uklopile u lokalni život i uspješno savladale jezik.

Evo priča o životu jedne Amerikanke u Klisu…

KLIS JE MJESTO GDJE…

Malo mjesto na obroncima Klisa nedaleko od Splita, od 2008. godine je moj dom, ali uvjeravam vas da tako nisam zamišljala svoj život. Imala sam velike planove koji nisu uključivali ostavljanje svega iza sebe i preseljenje iz rodnog San Diega u Kaliforniji, u mjesto za koje do tada sa svojih 25 godina nisam ni znala da postoji! Tijekom godina sam utvrdila da je ova činjenica neobična svima s kojima stupim u kontakt, pa i samim Hrvatima.

Kada kažem da živim u Klisu, stranci reagiraju pristojnim i zbunjenim pitanjem „Gdje je točno Klis?“. Međutim, reakcije koje dobivam od Splićana obično su gromoglasan smijeh uz pristojne isprike. Naime, Hrvati, a napose Dalmatinci, prilično su izravan narod i rijetko što uljepšavaju, pa sam se s vremenom navikla na čisti šok i užas na spomen mog prebivališta: "Vi ste iz Kalifornije? I živite u Klisu? Jeste li poludjeli?! ZAŠTO?"

Ovo su tek neka od manje indiskretnih pitanja koja dobivam na dnevnoj bazi, a njihova učestalost vas tjera da se zapitate o vlastitom zdravom razumu!

I tako, pošto je već sedam godina to glavno pitanje dana, vrijeme je da raščistimo stvari i objasnimo, kako mojim Amerikancima kojima sam navodno okrenula leđa, tako i Hrvatima koji su me prigrlili, da ipak nisam potpuno poludjela, jer sam između Klisa i Kalifornije odabrala ovo prvo.

I zato, dozvolite mi da rasvijetlim zabludu skeptika i neupućenih o tome koliko je Klis udaljen od gradskog centra i po njihovu mišljenju, moderne civilizacije. Riječ je o slikovitoj, 15-minutnoj vožnji automobilom (autobusom se vozite 5 minuta dulje).

Svjesna sam da se gotovo do bilo kojeg dijela grada automobilom može doći za gotovo pet minuta, no dok vi tražite parking, ja sam već na svojim vratima! Za osobu naviklu na gust promet Južne Kalifornije, gdje je 15 minuta tek četvrtina vremena potrebnog da stignete bilo gdje, Klis je „odmah iza ugla“. Da ne spominjemo neprocjenjiv pogled na grad, okolicu, more i idilične otoke, kakav u Kaliforniji košta doslovno milijun dolara, ako ne i više!

Druga uobičajena zabluda koju Splićani imaju o Klisu je da je ovdje strašno dosadno. Naprotiv! Mnoga od mojih najljepših sjećanja, kao i najuzbudljiviji i najzanimljiviji trenuci mog života, dogodili su se upravo ovdje. Dat ću sve od sebe da ih sažmem u nastojanju da rastjeram te smiješne glasine.

Dakle, Klis je mjesto gdje…

-sam se udala za čovjeka svog života, u 115 godina staroj crkvici odmah pored naše kuće
-smo 400 godina staru obiteljsku kuću preuredili i učinili našim domom
-smo kupili naš prvi komad poljoprivrednog zemljišta i zasadili naš višnjik
-sam uzgojila svoje prvo stablo maslina, kojih svake godine uberem na stotine kako bih sudjelovala u izradi našeg vlastitog maslinova ulja
-svake godine sadimo različito organsko voće i povrće na našem malom imanju
-proizvodimo crno i bijelo vino i rakiju u našoj konobi
-također izrađujemo sve vrste mesnih proizvoda, uključujući pršut i kobasice
-ove proizvode koristimo u pripremanju zabava za do 50 ljudi!
-pečemo svinjetinu i janjetinu na ražnju, a hobotnicu i teletinu ispod peke
-sagorim sve ove kalorije trčeći ili vozeći se biciklističkim stazama u polju podno mog doma
-sam po prvi put u životu zametena snijegom, i pobjegla kroz prozor na gornjem katu kuće
-sam postala počasna „prva dama“ u biciklističkom klubu mog supruga
-sam postala luda obožavateljica mačaka – tri naše kućne mace sam spasila s ulice, a hranim nebrojeno mnogo lutalica
-sam naučila govoriti svoj 4. jezik, smatran od nekih trećim najtežim na svijetu
-imam drevnu tvrđavu i atraktivnu filmsku lokaciju praktično u svom dvorištu
-je Hollywood došao k meni, odabravši me kao statista u čuvenim HBO-ovim „Igrama prijestolja“
-kad nisam bila na setu, ogledala sam kako Khaleesi izdaje naredbe svojoj vojsci sa vlastitog balkona
-održavamo tradiciju igranja američkog nogometa priređujući prigodna događanja svake nedjelje
-ugošćavamo nebrojene posjetitelje iz svih krajeva svijeta u svom povijesnom domu
-odakle odlazim istraživati svijet, ali se uvijek rado vraćam

Mogla bih nastaviti, ali mislim da su do sada već svi uvidjeli da je moj život na Klisu sve samo ne dosadan. Svi znamo staru poslovicu „Dom je tamo gdje je srce“, a ja sretno i ponosno tvrdim da Klis drži ključ moga.

Nije slučajnost da je latinska riječ za Klis Clavis, što doslovno znači ključ, a i povijesno je poznat kao ključ Dalmacije! Pozivam sve skeptike i znatiželjnike, bilo da su Hrvati ili pak strani gosti, da dođu vidjeti što im Klis nudi. Po mom iskustvu, Klis je mjesto gdje snovi postaju stvarnost, gdje se sve može dogoditi, gdje možete izgubiti, ili pak pronaći sebe.

Kao što sam rekla, moj se život nije trebao ovako odviti, to nije bio moj veliki plan, ali srećom taj sam plan bacila u vjetar. Taj me je vjetar - hladna dalmatinska bura - donio na Klis, i ispalo je još mnogo bolje!

Piše:  Tracey Allison Glavina i Paul Bradbury
Fotografije: Paul Bradbury i privatan album Tracey Allison Glavina[:en]I am not quite sure what to make of Tracey the Californian.

When I first met her, she was just one of the girls, a lovely set of bi-lingual expats who had been drawn to live in Split and its environs. They used to meet regularly for coffee in the day, a glass of wine or four in the evening, as well as plenty of events in between. Most were somehow connected with tourism and gastronomy, and entering their world was a cool introduction into the Split scene, with some very nice people.

But Tracey was different, for Tracey lives in the hills. In Klis.

I finally got to see Tracey in her man cave in Klis when I visited with a journalist for Croatia's main newspaper, Jutarnji List, last summer. Jutarnji were doing a story on the attractions of inland Dalmatia, which ended up being a 4-page spread on the Sunday edition.

And the more I talked to Tracey, the more I realised she WAS different, one of the few foreigners with no Croatian roots to come here and totally integrate into local life, fluent Croatian and all. Here are her thoughts about life as an American in Klis...

 KLIS IS WHERE...

Klis, a little hillside village just outside of Split, Croatia has been my home since 2008, but I can assure you this is nothow my life was supposed to turn out. I had big plans that did not involve me leaving my entire life behind and moving from my native San Diego, California to a place I never even knew existed at the prime age of 25. As strange as it once seemed to me I’ve discovered over the years that it’s even more unusual to nearly everyone I come into contact with and especially Croats themselves.

When I say I live in Klis, foreigners usually respond with a politely confused “Where is Klis?” However, the reactions I get from Splićani(people from Split) often include immediate laughter combined with their sincerest apologies. Croats, or more specifically, Dalmatians, are a blunt breed and don’t sugar coat anything, so over time I’ve gotten used to the pure shock and horror my place of residence invokes in them along with the invasive questions. They almost always go something like this, “You’re from California? And you live in Klis? Are you insane?! WHY?!!!” Those are just a few of the less invasive ones I’m begged to answer on a daily basis, which as you can imagine is enough to make any otherwise normal person question their own sanity.

So since it seems to be the question of the day, nearly everyday, for the past 7 years I guess it’s time for me to finally face the klapa(Croatian a cappella music) and set the record straight. In fact, the time is long overdue to convince the masses, including; my fellow Americans I’ve seemingly abandoned as well as the Croats who are ready to have me committed, that I’m not all that crazy for picking Klis over California.

After the initial shock and horror wear off and the barrage of ‘Are you insane?’ questions subside I’m usually then told matter­of­factly by Splićanijust how far Klis is from the city and in their minds modern day civilization. So for all those skeptics in Split and anyone

not familiar with where Klis is, allow me to clear up this crazy misconception. Klis is a short and scenic 15 minute drive or 20 minute bus ride from the center of Split. I realize it takes only 5 minutes to get almost anywhere in Split by car, but you also must spend the next 5­10 minutes searching for parking and by the time you’ve found it I’m already through my door.

As someone who endured Southern California traffic for the first 25 years of their life, I’m accustomed to 15 minutes making up only a quarter of the drive to most places I need to go. So for me living in Klis is like being just around the corner or rather just up the hill from Croatia’s 2nd largest city and in reality that’s exactly where it is. On top of that, I get to enjoy a million dollar view of Split, the Adriatic Sea and its idyllic islands whereas in California a view like that (if it even existed) would cost literally a million dollars or much more these days.

Another common misconception many Splićaniseem to have about living in Klis is that it’s dreadfully boring. I can conclude, based on their colorful comparisons, that they dread I

am bored to tears up here and constantly in danger of drowning in them. I’ve been called a hostage, a captive, a prisoner even a torture victim! So in an effort to calm everyone’s fears and halt their crazy comparisons I’m compelled to elaborate on just how boring life in Klis isnot. Many of the most exciting and interesting moments of my life have occurred in Klis and some of my best memories were made here. I’ll do my best to narrow them all down in an effort to properly dispel this ridiculous rumor, but I can’t promise not to bore youto tears in my attempt.

 Klis is where...

• I married the man of my dreams at the 115 year­old church next to our house.

• We renovated and made our home in his family’s 400 year­old stone house.

• We bought our first piece of agricultural land and planted our cherry orchard.

• I planted my first olive tree and pick hundreds every year to make our own oil.

• Each season we plant various organic fruits and vegetables on our small farm.

• We make white and red wine and rakija(liquor) in our konoba(wine cellar).

• We also make all types of meat products including prosciutto and sausages.

• We put these products to use by hosting parties with up to 50 people.

• We roast lambs and pigs on the spit and octopus and veal under peka.

• I work off this food by running or biking the trails in the field below my house.

• I was snowed in for the 1st time in my life and escaped out an upstairs window.

• I became an honorary “old lady” in my husbands biker club, Klis Free Riders.

• I also became a crazy cat lady and rescued my 3 cats and feed a dozen strays.

• I learned my fourth language, claimed by some as the 3rd hardest in the world.

• I have an ancient fortress and famous TV filming location right in my backyard.

• Hollywood came to me and picked me as an extra for HBO’s Game of Thrones.

• When not on set, I watch Khaleesi command her army from my balcony.

• We keep the American football tradition alive by hosting parties every Sunday.

• We host countless visitors from all over the world in our historic home.

• I leave from to explore the world, but am always excited to return to.

I could continue, but I think you can all see by now that simply put, Klis is where it’s at! There’s never a dull moment in Klis and life here is anything but boring, in fact, it’s busier than ever! We all know the old saying, ‘Home is where the heart is’ and I’m not only happy, but

also proud to say that Klis holds the key to mine. So it can’t be a coincidence that the latin word for Klis is Clavis, which literally means key and it’s historically known as the key to Dalmatia. I encourage all who are curious; foreigners, Croats and skeptical Splićanialike to come and see what Klis holds for you. In my experience, Klis is where dreams come true, where anything can happen, where fantasy becomes reality, where you can get lost or find yourself. Like I said this wasn’t how my life was supposed to turn out, this was not my big plan, but luckily I threw that plan to the bura(Dalmatian wind), the burablew me to Klis and it turned out much better.

Written by  Paul Bradbury[:]

by Croatian Hot Spots