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There are few spaces in Dalmatian iconography where so little attention has been given as the Tavern. It is a spot praised in songs, revived in the movies, played at the theater boards. In this particular spot the lively life was rolling, was celebrated and mourned, cried and laughed, quarreled and reconciled.
And all this, with an abundance of local cuisine, genuine and authentic which is simmering in large pots on the hearth, with the family, relatives and friends. That’s how it used to be.
The Tavern of the present time, with the honor of exceptions, lost such kind of a character. Turned it into a restaurant where collard with dry mutton, pasta and beans, cabbage and sauerkraut with beans lost the war with “cevapcici” and pizzas, burgers and calamari from imports, those for whom to arrive on their Dalmatian destinations were traveling in thick ice for who knows how long, for days, months, maybe even years. The socializing motive still remained the same, but changed the basic, recognizable smell of cuisine, the odor which alluded to food prepared in a way that our grandmothers and great-grandmothers used to do. The Tavern remained a tavern, with the same fishing nets and pots, taxidermy fish and other marine menagerie, but lost out to its basic meaning, nurturing of autochthonous in culinary terms.
And so with the full attention of the project it awaits the return of the days of the old Tavern glory, which will be tested to find restaurants that are adorning with such title. They will fight fiercely, not among themselves in having abundant and increasingly growing competition, but with themselves. To obtain the Designations of Origin of – a real Dalmatian, in their pots will have to start to cook the recipes associated with Dalmatian authentic cooking.
Foto: Konoba Panorama, Topići
This post is also available in: Croatian